If that didn't work, try this second method. Remember which lead it is head to the next step. You've identified which sensor needs to be replaced. If one sensor is dead (and that's your only problem), you'll see that disconnecting one or the other of the good sensors prevents the motor from turning altogether, while disconnecting the bad one has no effect at all-it still sputters. By the way, both require the motor to be fully assembled, so put the wrench away! The first is to simply run the motor while one sensor lead is disconnected, then again for the second lead, and a third time for the last lead. Now, there are two methods I've used to determine which of the three sensors failed.

For this project, we are concerned only with the smaller wires. And three wires connect the sensors to the controller: Green, Blue, and Yellow. Two wires power the sensors and are smaller: Red and Black. Three wires power the motor and are larger (16 AWG): Green, Blue, and Yellow. There are eight wires, or leads, running from the motor. First, a thousand thank-you's go out to myelectricbike, who walked me through this step-by-step, provided much of the information you'll read here, and is singlehandedly forging a first-rate forum for Golden Motor product owners.įirst, let's sort out the motor's wiring. This Instructable documents the process I followed to replace this sensor and bring my bike back to life. After a little research and hanging around the Golden Motor owner's forum, I learned that my problem was a failed sensor and it needed to be replaced. This is known as 'sputtering.' There were also dead spots, where, if at rest, the wheel could not begin to spin. Rotation was jerky and it didn't produce much torque. Sure enough, after repairing the wiring, I found that the motor didn't turn smoothly anymore. The controller, as I said before, depends on these sensors to distribute power, so the whole system fails with the loss of even one of them. As a result, the current intended for the motor found its way to one of the sensors and killed it as the heat changed the internal composition from silcon to silcon dioxide. When the bike fell, the sensor and power leads-8 wires altogether-were crushed and severed as the axle ground against the concrete. Although, I certainly didn't help the situation when I crashed the stupid thing. Better efficiency means you get more mechanical energy per unit of power, which is a good thing! The bad thing is, hall-effect sensors are relatively unreliable in the hot, high voltage, rock-and-roll insides of electric bike hub motors.

That's obviously the short version and it is a complex compared to standard DC motors, but brushless motors are more efficient and that's the benefit. This information permits the controller to alternate power with the right timing and in the right sequence and, voila, it spins. To do this, some controller systems use hall-effect sensors inside the hub, which track the motor's position. Brushless motors use electronic controllers instead of brush systems to control the timing and distribution of power to the motor.

Rad electric bike motor problem